Windows and Door
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Table of Contents
Quiet Shed - This article is part of a series.
Windows #
Windows are typically a major expense. But I did not need anything fancy, so I decided to make my own simple windows and door. I wanted light, ventilation, and soundproofing.
I had a spare sheet of 10mm twin-wall polycarbonate, enough for the north windows. And enough spare 6mm acrylic for the east and west windows.
I was aware that the polycarbonate is a better thermal insulator ( U = 2.9) than the acrylic ( U = 5.2 ish). But I didn’t find out until later that the polycarbonate is a very poor acoustic insulator, because it is light and rigid. I came back to that later with secondary glazing - see the soundproofing page.
Fixed polycarbonate panels #
The fixed polycarbonate windows were super simple. Just cut to size with a box cutter, run a bead of silicone around the edge, and screw it on. I also sealed up the ends of the channels with silicone. Technically they are supposed to be installed vertically not horizontally, but that’s just the shape I had.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/polycarb-screws_huf2e793c5187be8838d8bcd3f384492a2_216131_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
Awning window #
The middle panel was to be an inward-opening awning window, for ventilation. Having no experience with window frames, I designed it like a cabinet door: the opening part is face-fit with hinges and latches. The opening part (sash?) I made from 30x40mm primed pine. It is rigid enough.
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Then I attached polycarbonate to one face of the sash in the same way I did the fixed panels.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/window-polycarb_huc51820139d5d2305dc27cc963052e29a_266071_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
Then I just screwed it in with hinges at the top, and a latch on each side.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/awning-v1_hu17ce82c063b5edf0a737b37e00a73de4_208229_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
At this point there were two problems:
- there was no way to hold the window open;
- once the ceiling was plasterboarded, the window hit it restricting its opening.
Both of these problems were solved by replacing the hinges with a friction stay. It holds the window open, and it has a kind of sliding pivot so the top of the window comes down as it opens. As it is designed for windows that are inside a frame (oh I guess that is how normal windows work), I had to mechanically translate the force with rigid wood panels.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/window-closed_hu262ac8815ede5b1d09b4cdf7872a5563_322881_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
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Fixed acrylic panels #
The east and west windows are triangular following the roofline. Acrylic panels are attached on the outside, just like the polycarbonate panels.
I had one piece long enough for the whole of the north window - except a minor cutoff at the end which I filled with plywood. But the south window had to be made from two pieces.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/cutting-acrylic_hu871903556b6813cc151adcf57ae57db2_212867_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
It is hard to find anything that will stick to acrylic. It laughs at most sealants and tapes. The notable exception is this specialist VST / Acribond double-sided tape. I used that for a seal, and also screwed the panels in.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/acrylic-mounting-tape_hu28b31c2ea20c4ba0ae283585665ba7c9_218938_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
Secondary glazing #
See the soundproofing page.
Door #
It’s a pet peeve of mine that people neglect doors when thinking about their building fabric. They might have an amazing wall construction but stick a standard door in it. Here was an opportunity to make my dream door. I wanted it super solid. Offcuts of 17mm plywood for the outside face, and a 35mm timber frame behind.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/door-construction_huf5b2d437f103655f538b866ca0adb798_194676_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
For the inside face I used 3mm MDF sheets. That brings the thickness to 17 + 35 + 3 = 55mm which is the maximum that an off-the-shelf latch set can handle.
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/door-handle_hub0aa4b351fb7d9a72218837e586a614b_190434_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
I applied waterproof flashing tape to the structural opening. Then constructed a jamb from 110x18 and 66x18 primed pine. Note that 110 - 66 = 44, so the door has to protrude 11mm outside the jamb. (Because I hadn’t thought through my door design until too late.)
![](/posts/quiet-shed/4-windows/sill-tape_huf5b2d437f103655f538b866ca0adb798_228386_660x0_resize_q75_box.jpg)
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